"It is almost axiomatic that the worst trains
take you through the most magical places."
Train travel to Malaysia? It's the rail way to travel.
Ok, that wasn't a very good pun but, that's not to say that Malaysian trains fall under the 'worst' category. On the contrary, train travel to Malaysia is among the best in the region -- safe, comfortable and most of all, very affordable.
There is however, one such 'worst' train running in the interior of Sabah. It called the Beaufort-Tenom commute. I've ridden on it and I can tell you, it is exactly how Paul Theroux would have expected it to be -- antiquated, bone-shaking, smelly and ... simply magical.
But that's another story ...
The Beaufort-Tenom train in the interior of Sabah
Paul Theroux is one of my favourite authors and he sure knows what he's talking about when it comes to trains. As a travel writer, he's been on some pretty interesting trains.
The Great Railway Bazaar is a great read; a magnificent travel odyssey that details Paul Theroux's 4-month journey from London to Tokyo (with a stopover in Malaysia, of course) and back. It's a great book to bring along on your next (what else) train adventure.
As far as real-malaysia-travel-secrets.com is concerned, and for the sake of convenience, we shall assume that the starting point for your train travel to Malaysia is either busy Bangkok in the north or squeaky clean Singapore in the south.
Any further than that and I'll have to start a whole new website on the subject.
Of course, if you want to do it a la The Great Railway Bazaar, from London or wherever else, who's stopping you? After all, it's about having an adventure of a lifetime.
Train travel in the Malaysian context refers to only 2 train operators:
Malaysian Railways and Thai Railways.
Also known as Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM), Malaysian Railway runs all the way from Singapore in the south to Bangkok (togther with Thai Railways), 2000km away in the north.
The cost? From as little as RM34 ($10) for a second class seat to RM180 ($54) for a private cabin complete with shower and toilet, depending on your destination. Cheap by international standards.
Skip to 'Train Travel from Bangkok to Malaysia'
You begin your journey in Singapore from the archaic Tanjong Pagar Railway Station on Keppel Rd, a 1930s building commissioned during the British colonial era.
Tanjong Pagar Railway Station, Singapore
- To zoom in, click on the plus sign (+), or double-click on the map
- To zoom out, click on the minus (-) sign, or right-double-click on the map
- To see more, click and hold to move the map around
Interestingly, the station, and the land it sits on, actually belongs to Malaysia. Singapore, on the other hand, would have preferred Malaysia to relocate the station elsewhere on the island so they can develop this extremely valuable piece of land.
Anyway, it's a long political story that we won't go into here but the gist of it is Malaysia and Singapore used to be part of the same family during the days of British Malaya.
Then in 1965, Singapore decided to strike out and become its own country. However, the railway station remained part of Malaysia. For the sake of nostalgia, I hope it remains this way.
On the other hand, this 'arrangement' dictates that passport clearance is done a little differently, as you'll see below.
CUSTOMS AND IMMIGRATION
Ok, here's where it gets a little complicated:
When leaving Singapore by train, you actually clear MALAYSIAN customs and immigration first at Tanjong Pagar station.
Then, when you reach Singapore's modern Woodlands terminal some 30 minutes later, you disembark from the train (leaving your luggage on board), take a short walk to the Singapore immigration control building and get your passport processed, and then you re-board your train.
Train travel to Malaysia offers a relatively fuss-free journey all the way to your destination which would likely be the capital city of Kuala Lumpur. I've also taken the liberty of adding in other destinations in Malaysia that you might be visiting by train.
OVERNIGHT OR DAY EXPRESS?
Both have its merits - the overnight express lets you enjoy a good night's sleep, waking up at your destination refreshed or, you can take the day-express and spend your time gazing at the verdant Malaysian landscape.
Maybe the videos here can help you decide:
Overnight Express from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur
Day Express from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur
| TRAIN TIMES: SINGAPORE - KUALA LUMPUR - PENANG | ||||
Train number |
||||
Station |
arr/dep |
2 |
12 |
6 |
| Singapore (Tg Pagar station, Keppel Rd) | dep |
07:40 |
21:00 |
15:30 |
| Johore Bahru | dep |
08:28 |
22:13 |
16:19 |
| Gemas | arr/dep |
11:24 |
02:18 |
19:14 |
| Tampin (Malacca) | arr/dep |
12:15 |
03:30 |
20:06 |
| Kuala Lumpur (Sentral) | arr |
14:19 |
06:00 |
22:05 |
| Kuala Lumpur (Sentral) change train | dep
|
14:19 |
- |
- |
| Ipoh | arr/dep |
17:31 |
- |
- |
| Butterworth (Penang) | arr |
21:35 |
- |
- |
Train no. 2: Express Rakyat. Runs daily, Singapore-KL-Penang.
Train no. 12: Express Senandung Malam. Runs daily, Singapore-KL overnight sleeper.
Train no. 6: Express Sinaran Petang. Runs daily, Singapore-KL day-train.
From L to R, Deluxe sleeper (cabin) with shower and wc, 1st class sleeper, 2nd class sleeper.
| TRAIN FARES: SINGAPORE - KUALA LUMPUR - PENANG | ||||||
| One way ticket in Ringgit (RM) | 3rd class seat |
2nd class seat |
1st class seat |
2nd |
1st class sleeper |
Deluxe sleeper (shower+wc) |
| Singapore - Kuala Lumpur | RM34($10) |
RM34($10) |
RM68($10) |
RM43($10) |
RM86($10) |
RM131($38)- twin sharing RM180 ($54)-single occupancy |
| Singapore - Butterworth (Penang) | - |
RM30($20) |
RM127($40) |
- |
- |
- |
| Kuala Lumpur - Butterworth | RM17($6) |
RM34($10) |
RM67($22) |
RM43($12) |
RM85($23) |
- |
REFERENCE OF CLASS CODES WHEN BOOKING ONLINE:
AFC: 1st class seats (Premier)
ASC: 2nd class seats (Superior)
AEC: 3rd class seats (Economy)
ADNS: 2nd class sleeper (Superior Night)
2PLUS: 1st class sleeper (Premier Night Standard)
ADNF: Deluxe sleeper, private cabin with shower/wc (Premier Night Deluxe)
From L to R, 1st class seat, 2nd class seat, 3rd class seat.
HOW TO BUY YOUR TRAIN TICKETS. 4 ways...
1) AT THE STATION:
Just walk into any KTM train station and buy your ticket (in this case it's the Tanjong Pagar station)
2) ONLINE: at www.ktmb.com.my
Click on 'e-ticketing' and proceed to register as a user.
Next, book your tickets and pay by credit card.
Print out your temporary ticket and collect the real ones at any KTM station.
Tips for booking online:
- Tickets may booked up to 60 days in advance.
- Kuala Lumpur is listed under 'S' as 'Sentral Kuala Lumpur'.
- The 'Label/slot' field refers to your choice of coach
- You can also indicate the seat of your choice
- The best 2nd class sleepers are located in the middle of the coach
- Lower berths, thought slightly more expensive, are wider than upper berths
3) BY PHONE:
+6 03 2267 1200 (outside Malaysia)
03 2267 1200 (within Malaysia)
No need for any explanation here except be aware of KTM's office hours which are 08.15 to 17.00
4) BY EMAIL:callcentre@ktmb.com.my
When booking by email, simply specify the dates and class of travel preferred. The reservations centre will reply with a reference number which you will need to quote when you present yourself at the station to pick up and pay for your ticket.
There are 2 trains that takes you from Bangkok to Malaysia. One is the International Express (actually a Thai Railways train), or Express Antarabangsa, as we call it in Malaysia, and the other is Malaysian Railway's Express Langkawi, which runs from Hat Yai near the Malaysian border, to Kuala Lumpur.
Departing daily at 14:45 from Hualamphong station, the International Express only offers 2nd class sleepers but they are air-conditioned and comfortable. The restaurant car is only available until Hat Yai (arrives at 05:45 the next morning).
Hualamphong station, Bangkok.
- To zoom in, click on the plus sign (+), or double-click on the map
- To zoom out, click on the minus (-) sign, or right-double-click on the map
- To see more, click and hold to move the map around
The train reaches Padang Besar station, the first Malaysian stop, at 10:00 the next morning. This town is located on the border of Malaysia and Thailand.
4 hrs later, the International Express ends its run at Butterworth, from where it's just a 20-minute ferry ride to Penang island, the first notable city on your journey to Malaysia.
Penang ferry; and view of the straits from Penang Hill.
From here on, you can just about make your way to anywhere in Malaysia.
For more about travelling within Malaysia, see 'Getting around'.
Train times and fares
| TRAIN TIMES: BANGKOK - PENANG - KUALA LUMPUR | |||
Train number |
|||
Station |
arr/dep |
35 |
7 |
| Bangkok (Hualamphong) | dep |
14:45 |
- |
| Hat Yai | arr |
05:54 |
- |
| Hat Yai (change train) | dep |
05:54 |
14:50 |
| Padang Besar (border) | dep |
10:00 |
17:50 |
| Butterworth (Penang) | arr |
13:45 |
20:55 |
| Butterworth (Penang) | dep |
- |
21:45 |
| Ipoh | arr |
- |
02:11 |
| Kuala Lumpur | arr |
- |
06:10 |
Train no. 35: International Express (Thai Railways). Runs daily, Bangkok - Butterworth - Kuala Lumpur
Train no. 7: Express Langkawi. Runs daily, Hat Yai - Butterworth
You have a choice of going all the way to Butterworth, then continue to KL on a later date, or you can change trains at Hat Yai and continue all the way to KL.
| TRAIN FARES: BANGKOK - PENANG - KUALA LUMPUR | |
| Bangkok to Butterworth | $38, 2nd class sleeper (no other options) |
| Butterworth to Kuala Lumpur | RM40 ($14) 2nd class sleeper |
The total fare of a Bangkok-Kuala Lumpur journey comprises the cost of 1 ticket from Bangkok to Butterworth on a Thai Railways train, and the cost of another ticket from Butter worth to Kuala Lumpur on a Malaysian train (which you change to at Hat Yai). Sounds confusing but don't worry, it's easier than you think.
HOW TO BUY YOUR TRAIN TICKETS. 4 ways...
1) AT THE STATION:
You can make reservations for your tickets at Hualamphong station in Bangkok itself, or if you like living on the edge, you can buy your tickets on the day of departure itself. A bit of a gamble but during non-peak periods, it's not likely to be full anyway.
The reservation office opens for business daily between 08:00 - 16:00 but do keep in mind that reservations can only be made no more that 30 days in advance, and at least 15 days before your date of departure.
2) BY EMAIL TO:passenger-ser@railway.co.th
3) BY FAX TO: + 66 2 225 6068
Reservations by email or fax are only allowed at least 15 days before the date of departure. Your request MUST include the journey, date, train number, departure time, class, seat or sleeper (upper or lower berth), number of passengers, your name and e-mail address, and whether you want to collect your tickets at Don Muang airport or at Hualamphong station in Bangkok itself.
You will receive a reply confirming your booking. You pay for your tickets when you collect them.
Do note that bookings by email or fax incur a small charge of 200 Baht (US$5) per booking.
4) THROUGH THAI TRAVEL AGENTS, BY EMAIL:
The only difference between this arrangement and your booking directly with Thai Railways is that the travel agents can courier the tickets to you wherever you are in the world. You can also arrange for it to be sent to your hotel in Bangkok, before you arrive.
Obviously, these agencies will charge a small fee of around 200 Baht on top of the regular ticket charges plus, whatever courier charges are incurred as well.
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